LOU in Nakano: the cafe I love most, what to order, and when to avoid the wait
Nakano is better known for anime shops and bar alleys than for coffee, which is exactly why LOU feels like a find. It is a small, busy all-day cafe a few minutes' walk from the station, run as a sister shop to Paddlers Coffee in Hatagaya, and it is one of my favourite cafes in Tokyo. Here is what to order, when to go, and what to expect at the door.
LOU is open 9:00–16:00 on weekdays and 8:00–16:00 on weekends and public holidays, and closed on Wednesdays (per the cafe's own Instagram). They do not take reservations, so you just go and wait. Go early, because the afternoon from about 2–3 pm is the busiest, and avoid weekends if you can. It is a bit pricey for a casual lunch but hard to beat for the salads, the soup and the cookies.
What LOU is like
LOU sits in a back street of Nakano, in a neighbourhood that is closer to old izakaya streets than to a design district. I have been going for a long time. What I like is something a lot of Japanese cafes do not do: it is stylish without being hushed. Many Tokyo cafes are beautiful and very quiet, to the point where you feel you should not speak, or very minimal. LOU is designed with real taste, but it feels alive and a little active rather than polite and still. It is not fancy-clean either, and that is part of the charm.
It is a sister shop of Paddlers Coffee, the well-known Hatagaya coffee shop. LOU is the lunch-and-brunch side of that world: more food, with salads and soups, and the same sense of good coffee and design. Local guides also list it as opening in 2021, and note that the interior fittings are handmade.
What to order
The thing LOU is known for is soup, and I wanted the seasonal mushroom soup. It was sold out when I arrived (so was the goulash), which is a good reason to go early. Instead I had the salad bowl (¥1,700 when I went), a big, filling plate with greens, tomato, egg and sweet potato. I added a mini focaccia as a separate order (¥300), and had a milky coffee. The soup menu changes with the season: there was a seasonal mushroom soup and a goulash, and both were sold out, which made the choice harder. Prices change, so check the board.
The chalkboard menu on the wall also lists a bagel sandwich, an egg and trout plate and a side soup (¥500 on the board), but check it on the day, as items change and sell out.
Do not skip the cookie. I had the matcha and white chocolate one (¥500), a soft, slightly chewy, American-style cookie, and it was excellent. Everything I have eaten here has been good, and the flavours are reliable.
Go when it opens. LOU starts at 9:00 on weekdays (8:00 at weekends), and the busiest time is from about 2 or 3 pm. I would avoid Saturdays and Sundays if you can, because even on a Sunday I waited a little. On a weekday outside peak hours you will usually find a seat. A large group is hard here, so it is best for one to four people.
Practical details
Address: 5-53-4 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo, about a six-minute walk from the north exit of Nakano Station (as listed by a local guide). Hours: 9:00–16:00 on weekdays, 8:00–16:00 on weekends and public holidays, closed Wednesdays, according to LOU's own Instagram (@lou_nakano); a May 2025 guide gave the food last order as 15:00 and the drink last order as 16:00. Reservations: not accepted. Seating: there is outdoor terrace seating as well as inside; on this visit I took the end seat on the terrace. Paying: you order and pay first, then sit. I paid by card this time; I do not remember whether cash is accepted, so check at the counter.
The shelf by the counter sells LOU goods and coffee. I noticed a LOU tumbler at ¥3,000 and the LOU original drip packs at ¥250 each, or ¥1,750 for a box of seven.
Make a Nakano morning of it
LOU opens before most of Nakano does, so it makes a good start. After coffee, walk toward the shopping streets and the back streets, which we cover in the Nakano back streets guide. If you are there in the afternoon, the nearby Iyoshi Cola shop (open from 13:00) is a good next stop. Both are closed on Wednesdays, so plan around that.
Common questions
Does LOU in Nakano take reservations?
No. LOU's Instagram says they do not take reservations, so you queue on the day. Go at opening to avoid the wait.
What time does LOU open?
9:00 on weekdays and 8:00 on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, closing at 16:00. It is closed on Wednesdays, according to the cafe's Instagram.
What is the best time to visit LOU?
Right when it opens. The afternoon from around 2–3 pm is the busiest, and weekends are busier than weekdays.
What should I order at LOU?
The soup is the speciality (the seasonal mushroom soup and the goulash were both sold out when I visited, so go early), plus the salad bowl and the cookies. I loved the matcha and white chocolate cookie.
Is LOU good for groups?
Not really. Seating is limited, so it suits one to four people better than a large group.
How do I get to LOU from Shinjuku?
Take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Nakano, about 5 minutes. LOU is a roughly six-minute walk from the north exit, in the back streets.